A few months ago, gripped by baking fever, I purchased Mary Berry's Baking Bible. I quickly decided to embark upon a mission to bake everything in the book, and turn myself from an occasional baker into a bit of an expert. My Grandad Ern was a Master Baker by trade; the man responsible for introducing Danish Pastries to England in fact, and I wish it had occurred to me to spend more time learning from him, rather than simply enjoying the fruits of his effortless labours. This project is almost a way of making amends for that; I'd like to follow in his footsteps (if not in my career, at least as a hobby) and continue the proud heritage of baking in my family.
I credit my friend Rachel with the idea to write a blog about my baking exploits, hoping that there will be more successes than failures as I attempt all 213 of the Queen of Baking's recipes.
So as not to bore the husband with a monotonous diet of sponges, followed by weeks of biscuits, I've decided to tackle the recipes by selecting the first bake from each chapter, followed by the second recipe and so on. I'm not going to pick and choose; I'm determined to face my baking demons and learn how to do everything baking-related, even if the consequences are disastrous!
Everything will be photographed, with comment about how I found baking it, and a husband rating (to be taken with a pinch of salt as he has a very selective cake-tooth).


Sunday, 7 October 2012

25. Devils' Food Cake

I was really excited about baking this; it looked fairly straightforward and was bound to be tasty. The only challenge I envisaged was the frosting: never made 'frosting' before, and it looked fraught with hazard potential! Unfortunately my fears were realised, and this has been one of the few bakes I've done thus far which I've felt genuinely disappointed with. The cake itself was very easy to make, but one of few deviations from the 'all-in-one' method Mary seems to favour. It involved creaming the butter and the sugar together first, before adding the rest of the ingredients.
Also, the cocoa powder was mixed with water before adding to the cake batter; this made for a very wet mixture which would inevitably turn into a moist, fudgy-textured cake. I gave the cake 32 minutes in the oven; it was well-risen and a great colour. When I turned the sponges out of the tins, they were both very dark and sumptuous, and smelt lovely. I then had to leave them to cool right down before preparing the frosting. As it turned out, the art of making the frosting wasn't a difficult one to master, although I did resort to using the electric mixer towards the end as my hand whisking was feeble to say the least.

The mixture consisted of caster sugar, an egg white, a pinch of cream of tartar and some hot water. It had to be continuously whisked over a pan of 'hot water', and here's where the trouble began. For precision baking (such as it is), I need clearer instructions. I used my own judgement and set a pirex dish over a pan of boiled water, set on a medium-low heat. I thought if I retained the 'hotness' of the water, things would be ok. The recipe said nothing about 'boiling' or 'simmering'. So, whisking away to very little avail, I used the electric mixer to get the 'firm' texture described, thinking that the desired texture would be the only issue. It was only when I'd finished whisking that it occurred to me that there might actually be an issue with me testing it, and indeed eating the cake. Being pregnant, raw eggs are an issue, and I wasn't sure if the light 'heating' method was sufficient to constitute cooking the egg white! Otherwise, I'd have tested the frosting at this stage. Anyway, I spread a small amount on to sandwich the cakes together, and then got to work covering the cake all over. I was quite pleased with the end result; there was no picture in the book to work to, but I managed to create the desired 'peaks' and thought it all looked very appetising.
We didn't sample any of the cake until later in the day (after having decided that the egg-white issue probably wasn't anything to worry about) and were met with immediate disappointment. Chocolate cake = lovely; everything it should be. Frosting = shambolic. The sugar hadn't dissolved properly, so the end result was a very grainy and very soft frosting, which didn't match the description of a meringue/marshmallow texture. I'm now left with the dilemma about how to get the cake eaten. Husband and I will have a few slices sans frosting, but to inflict this on colleagues...?
Baker's verdict: I was so chuffed with my efforts here, and subsequently gutted that it didn't turn out so well after all. I'll master this frosting one day: sugar thermometer will be the next investment!
Husband rating: 7/10 for the cake - lovely bit of chocolate cake; 1/10 for the frosting - didn't like it at all because it was grainy - like eating raw sugar!

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